Camera and film choice: The camera can be digital or
employ film. If using a digital camera, the resolution should be 1600
x 1200 dpi or greater. If using film, try using a slow, professional
quality film such as Fujichrome Velvia (50 ISO). I use Minolta Maxxum
9xi bodies and Fujichrome Velvia rated at 40 ISO, and processed normally
(E6).
Lens Choice: A macro lens is necessary regardless of your camera
choice. A 50mm macro is usually too difficult to use, since you must
get too close to aquarium and the fish invariably try to swim away.
The lens of choice is a 100mm macro lens, such as the Minolta Maxxum
100mm f2.8. This is an excellent lens with incredible sharpness and
can provide lifesize images (1:1 magnification) or better. For digital
cameras, you must be able to reach at least 1/4 size magnification.
Since Xiphophorus fish can be small (adults can be smaller than
25mm standard length), be very careful as to what digital camera to
buy. Test the camera by trying to focus on a small object such as a
pen cap.
Lighting: For digital cameras, you MUST be able to cancel the
built in flash, since such light usually reflects back to the lens.
One can use photoflood lamps or side mounted flash units, or a combination
of both. One or more flashes can be mounted at a 45 degree angle to
the front aquarium glass but FACING AWAY and bouncing through diffusers.
I use twin Minolta Maxxum 5400 xi HS flashes and Lumiquest pocket bounce
diffusers.
Exposure: Always bracket (take multiple images at +1, normal
and +0.5 exposure). I use the TTL metering of the Minolta Maxxum 9xi
as a general guide. When using the 100mm macro lens, I use 1/180 sec
exposure and f8 or f11 manual camera settings. Digital cameras have
the great advantage of showing you the image, moments after recording
it.
Fish tank: Although numerous kinds of fish tanks can be used,
we have settled on a technique which restricts movements of a fish between
pieces of glass. The following is needed:
Aquarium: 6" x 12" x 8" (2 gallon)
Bottom Glass: 11 11/16" x 5 1/2"
Inside Glass: (2 pieces): 11 3/4" x 7"
3MM paper or equivalent (for white background)
Fine mesh net (such as those used for brine shrimp)
The tank should be set up with clean fish tank water that is filtered
throught the net. The bottom glass should be put in first and lie flat
against the bottom of the tank. The 3MM paper can be cut to size to
cover the back of the aquarium. Use at least 3 pieces of 3MM paper to
provide a solid white background. This prevents fish from sinking down
beyond the view of the photographer. The two pieces of identically sized
glass can be put in vertically, with one piece of glass supporting the
other. One piece of glass should be positioned parallel to the aquarium's
glass, while the other supports it. The fish is placed in the restricted
part of the tank and photographed using the methodologies described
above. Care should be taken to record all pertinent information regarding
the fish and the exposure parameters. Ideal pictures usually depict
a fish at a perpendicular angle to the axis of the lens. If using photoflood
lamps, be wary of temperature increases in the tank water. Remember,
you are dealing with a live animal, so be patient. Obtaining a good
photograph of a swimming fish may take 30 minutes of your time or more.
One can use java moss or numerous plants as a background by placing
them behind the inside glass.
The fish will not be in contact with it,
but the photographs will show the illusion of them interacting with
their environment. Good shooting.
Contributed by Steven Kazianis.
